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If you’re printing resin miniatures and trying to figure out which paint line to commit to, most of the advice online is written for people painting injection-molded plastic. Resin surfaces behave differently. Some paints adhere without issue; others chip at contact points and base edges within a week of finishing a model. The answer to “what paint should I use on resin minis” is not the same as the answer to “what paint should I use on Citadel plastics.”
This is the comparison that comes up repeatedly in resin painting communities: a direct look at the main acrylic lines, with adhesion to resin as a first-class consideration alongside the usual factors like coverage, range size, and price per ml. It fits into the full painting guide for resin miniatures: that guide covers the complete workflow; this one goes deep on the paint-line decision.
Before any paint goes on, the primer is doing the real adhesion work. If you haven’t dialed in your priming process for resin yet, start with the primer guide for resin miniatures: picking the right paint line is a secondary decision if the primer is wrong.
What Makes Resin Surfaces Different for Painting
Cured MSLA resin is smooth and slightly less porous than injection-molded plastic. That affects paint adhesion in two ways.
First, thin-formula paints that rely on mechanical grip can bead up or peel in the first few layers if the primer coat isn’t complete. This isn’t a paint-line problem specifically (it’s a surface prep problem) but it shows up more with thinner, water-heavy formulas applied directly without proper primer.
Second, resin surfaces tend to show chipping at contact points (base edges, weapon tips, raised detail) faster than plastic, because the cured resin layer itself is harder and more brittle under mechanical stress. Paints that dry with more flex hold up better. A matte varnish after finishing is the standard recommendation regardless of paint line, not optional, not just for display pieces. The varnishing guide covers what actually works.
With that context in place: here’s how the main lines compare.
The Paint Lines
Citadel (Games Workshop)
The most widely available miniature paint line, and the one with the most tutorial support online. If you’re following a YouTube guide for a specific model, there’s a good chance the colors are Citadel. The range is enormous: over 300 products spanning base paints, layers, shades, contrast, technical, and dry compounds.
Citadel paints are formulated for miniature work specifically, which means their consistency and viscosity are calibrated for brush application at 28-32mm scale. The Shade range (Nuln Oil, Agrax Earthshade, Reikland Fleshshade) is the most copied formula in hobby painting for a reason: thin, self-leveling washes that pool in recesses and dry to a matte finish.
On resin specifically: Citadel base paints adhere well over a properly primed resin surface. The formula isn’t the thinnest, which means it has decent mechanical body and doesn’t bead as easily as thinner formulas. Painters using Vallejo Surface Primer or Badger Stynylrez as their primer base report consistent adhesion results with Citadel base paints. The Contrast paints (their one-coat shade-and-base system) behave well on resin with a light primer. The contrast paint guide for resin covers the specific adjustments.
What’s good:
- Deepest range in the category: color-match problems are rare
- Excellent tutorial ecosystem; most YouTube guides use Citadel colors by name
- Shades are the best in class for miniature washing
- Contrast paints are a genuinely effective technique shortcut for batch painting
What’s worth knowing:
- Most expensive per ml of any mainstream line: roughly $0.50-0.60/ml in the standard pots
- 12ml pots dry out faster than dropper bottles if you’re not careful with the lid
- A few specific formulas (older technical paints) can be inconsistent batch-to-batch
Price per ml: Approximately $0.50-0.60 for standard base/layer pots.
Best for: Painters who follow YouTube tutorials closely, who want access to the complete shade system, or who value range depth over price efficiency.
Vallejo (Game Color and Model Color)
Vallejo is the dropper-bottle standard. The 17ml dropper format is practically better than Citadel pots in almost every way: easier to measure, less air exposure, less drying. The two relevant lines for miniature work are Game Color (brighter, more fantasy-oriented palette) and Model Color (broader, more historical, slightly more muted).
The paint formula is thinner than Citadel base paints: they flow easily and layer well but require good primer adhesion on resin since there’s less body to grip. The consistency is excellent straight from the bottle; they rarely need thinning for brush application, which is either a feature or a limitation depending on your preferred paint thickness.
On resin specifically: Vallejo adheres reliably to resin when the primer is solid. The thinner formula makes it more sensitive to primer quality than Citadel: if there’s any skip or thin area in the primer coat, you’ll notice it with Vallejo before you’d notice it with Citadel base. This isn’t a criticism of Vallejo; it’s just a characteristic to know. Full cure, IPA wash, and a proper primer coat make it a non-issue.
What’s good:
- Dropper bottles are the practical standard; better than pots for controlling paint flow
- Price per ml is noticeably better than Citadel: roughly $0.30-0.35/ml
- Game Color range covers the fantasy palette well
- Very consistent formula batch-to-batch; fewer surprises
What’s worth knowing:
- Tutorial ecosystem is smaller than Citadel; you’ll convert color names more often
- The thinner formula can make it less forgiving on rough or partially-primed surfaces
- The Game Color washes are functional but not as self-leveling as Citadel Shades
Price per ml: Approximately $0.30-0.35 for standard pots.
Best for: Painters who want better economics than Citadel, prefer dropper bottles, and are willing to convert colors from Citadel-based tutorials.
Army Painter Speedpaint 2.0
Army Painter Speedpaint 2.0 on Amazon
Speedpaint 2.0 is Army Painter’s one-coat shade-and-base system: similar concept to Citadel Contrast, different medium formulation. Version 1.0 had a serious problem: the dried layer reactivated when you painted over it, lifting the previous coat and leaving a streaked mess. Version 2.0 fixed this. You can now layer, highlight, and drybrush over dried Speedpaint without destroying what’s underneath.
The medium in Speedpaint 2.0 is slightly thicker than Citadel Contrast, which makes it easier to handle on larger flat surfaces where Contrast tends to pool into tide-lines. The color range is solid for fantasy and sci-fi work, and the starter sets give you a functional palette without buying individual pots.
On resin specifically: Speedpaint 2.0 handles resin surfaces well under a light primer, same rules as Citadel Contrast. White or off-white primer for the best shading effect; the medium needs a light base to pool visibly in recesses. On dark primer it reads as opaque and loses the gradient effect. The slightly thicker medium is an advantage on resin because there’s more body to flow into support-mark depressions, which can otherwise catch thin contrast mediums unpredictably.
What’s good:
- The reactivation fix in v2.0 makes it actually usable for proper painting workflows
- Slightly more forgiving on flat surfaces than Citadel Contrast
- Starter kits make it economical to try the full system without heavy investment
- Works well with pre-shaded resin prints where the surface already has depth
What’s worth knowing:
- Not a full paint line: you’ll need traditional acrylics alongside for metals, highlights, eyes
- The range is smaller than Citadel or Vallejo; some specific colors aren’t available
- Results are technique-dependent; brush loading and primer color matter more than with traditional paints
Price per ml: Approximately $0.40-0.50 for individual pots; lower per-ml in starter sets.
Best for: Painters who want to batch paint resin minis quickly without detailed highlighting. Fast technique for gaming pieces that need to look good on a table.
Pro Acryl (Monument Hobbies)
Pro Acryl is the paint line that keeps coming up in the “I switched from Citadel and don’t regret it” conversations on painting forums. Monument Hobbies designed it from scratch for miniature work, and the formula differences show: excellent adhesion on resin surfaces without heavy primer dependency, strong pigment load, and a working time that’s slightly longer than Citadel or Vallejo (more time to blend before the paint locks).
The range is smaller than Citadel or Vallejo: focused rather than exhaustive. Colors are chosen deliberately. The line skews toward painters who want a more neutral, less Games Workshop palette.
On resin specifically: Pro Acryl is formulated with a higher-grip medium specifically suited to smooth, low-porosity surfaces like cured MSLA resin. Painters comparing Pro Acryl to Citadel and Vallejo on resin surfaces typically report better adhesion at contact points and base edges, the places where chipping shows up first on handled miniatures. The formula is more forgiving if the primer coat has thin spots. It’s not a substitute for proper surface prep, but the margin for error is wider than with Citadel or Vallejo on bare or lightly primed resin.
What’s good:
- Strong adhesion on resin: best in this comparison at that specific attribute
- Excellent pigment density; covers in fewer coats than some competitors
- Longer working time gives more room for wet blending and feathering
- Dropper bottles, good seal, minimal drying issues
What’s worth knowing:
- Smaller range; color matching from tutorial-based Citadel workflows requires more substitution
- Less available at local game stores; primarily mail-order or Amazon
- Tutorial content is growing but still a fraction of the Citadel ecosystem
Price per ml: Approximately $0.35-0.45.
Best for: Painters who prioritize paint-to-resin adhesion and longer working time; anyone who has had chipping problems with other lines.
Scale75
Scale75 is a Spanish brand with a reputation for extremely high pigment density and a matte finish that photographs very well. The formula is thicker than Citadel or Vallejo and needs thinning for most applications: you’re expected to know what you’re doing with consistency management. It’s not a beginner line.
The range includes an excellent flesh tones set and some of the best metallic colors available in the hobby. If you’re painting display-quality pieces that will be photographed, Scale75 metallics are in a different category than most competitors.
On resin specifically: Scale75 adheres well on properly primed resin. The thick formula is more error-tolerant on thin primer spots than Vallejo but requires thinning to avoid obscuring fine detail. It’s a line for painters who understand what they’re working with and adjust accordingly.
What’s good:
- Exceptional metallics and skin tones
- Matte finish without varnishing for standard colors
- High pigment density means strong coverage
What’s worth knowing:
- Requires thinning for most applications; not a drop-in beginner line
- Tutorial ecosystem is small
- Higher price in the US market due to import costs
Price per ml: Approximately $0.45-0.60, higher for metallic sets.
Best for: Painters working at display/competition level who want control over flesh tones and metallics.
Head-to-Head Comparison
| Line | Formula | Adhesion on Resin | Range Size | Price/ml | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Citadel | Medium, pot | Very Good | Largest | ~$0.55 | Tutorial following, shade system |
| Vallejo Game Color | Thin, dropper | Good | Large | ~$0.32 | Economics, batch painting |
| Army Painter Speedpaint 2.0 | Medium-thick, shade | Good | Medium | ~$0.45 | Fast gaming pieces |
| Pro Acryl | Medium, dropper | Excellent | Medium | ~$0.40 | Resin adhesion, display work |
| Scale75 | Thick, dropper | Very Good | Medium | ~$0.52 | Display, metallics, skin tones |
Which Line to Buy First
If you’re choosing your first line and painting resin minis specifically: Pro Acryl or Citadel, depending on your priorities.
Buy Pro Acryl if adhesion and chipping resistance matter to you, for gaming pieces that get handled frequently, models that will be played with rather than displayed. The adhesion-to-resin advantage is real, and the economics are better than Citadel.
Buy Citadel if you’re going to follow a lot of YouTube tutorials and you want to be working with the same colors the instructor is using. The Shade range (Agrax Earthshade, Nuln Oil) is genuinely difficult to replicate with other products and worth owning even if you use a different line for base coats.
Add Vallejo when you want to fill gaps in your palette without Citadel’s price premium. Game Color and Model Color are good workhorses for large batch painting.
Add Speedpaint 2.0 as a technique supplement, not a replacement line. It’s excellent for specific use cases (batch painting a unit of infantry, covering a lot of surface quickly before a session) and pairs well with traditional highlights from your main line.
You don’t need one line. Most painters run two or three. The decision is which one to make your foundation.
Pairing With the Right Primer
The paint line you choose matters less than the primer underneath it. The adhesion comparison above assumes a properly primed surface: Vallejo Surface Primer, Badger Stynylrez, or Citadel spray primers on a fully cured, IPA-washed model.
If you’re having paint adhesion problems, check the primer before blaming the paint. The primer guide covers what actually bonds to cured resin and what fails.
For the contrast and speedpaint technique specifically (Citadel Contrast and Speedpaint 2.0) see the contrast paint guide for the primer color and application adjustments that make the technique work on printed resin.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need to thin acrylic paints before applying them to resin miniatures? Usually yes, slightly. Most acrylic paints benefit from a small amount of water or medium added to match the viscosity you want for a given technique. The right amount depends on the paint and what you’re doing: base coats can be used thicker, glazes need to be very thin. The goal is coverage without obscuring detail.
Can I use regular hardware store acrylic paint on resin minis? Technically yes; in practice, not recommended. Craft acrylics (Apple Barrel, Folk Art) have lower pigment density, inconsistent viscosity, and less predictable drying behavior on smooth resin surfaces. They work fine on terrain where detail isn’t critical. For character models and anything you want to look good, hobby-formulated miniature paints are a real difference.
Why is Citadel paint chipping on my resin minis? Usually a primer problem: either the primer didn’t bond well to the resin, or the paint went on before the primer fully cured. Confirm: full post-cure on the print, IPA wash and full dry, proper hobby primer (not hardware store), and let the primer fully cure (minimum 4-6 hours, overnight is better). If you’ve done all that and still see chipping at contact points, try Pro Acryl or add a matte varnish immediately after finishing.
Is Vallejo Game Color or Model Color better for fantasy miniatures? Game Color for most fantasy work: the palette is designed for vibrant fantasy tones, the greens and blues are more saturated than Model Color equivalents, and the range has more targeted fantasy flesh tones. Model Color is better if you want historical accuracy, muted tones, or are painting alongside people using a reference from historical miniature painting.
Do contrast paints work on resin without primer? No. Contrast paints need a light-colored primer to function: the medium needs a base to pool against, and the paint will absorb unevenly into unpainted resin surface. Always prime first.
For the painting workflow that follows primer (basecoating, washing, drybrushing, and varnishing in sequence) the complete guide to painting 3D printed resin miniatures covers each step with resin-specific notes. And for the STL files to practice on, best free STL sources for DnD miniatures has the starting list.